The Ultimate Guide to Scrub Fabric

You know that scrubs are made of fabric, but did you know that scrub fabric comes in a variety of fibers, weaves, finishes, and treatments? Not all scrub fabric is created equal, and the first step to choosing scrubs that fit your wants and needs is understanding how the fabric is made and what qualities it has as a result.

We've put together this guide to help you become an expert in scrub fabric, whether you've never read a garment tag in your life or you sew for fun on the side. Below, we break down everything you need to know, starting with fibers, moving on to weaves, and finally wrapping up with treatments and finishes. After reading this guide, you'll be able to understand the fine print on a scrub's product description or garment tag.

Fibers

There are four main fabric fibers that appear regularly on scrub tags: cotton, polyester, spandex, and rayon. Whether used alone or blended together in various combinations, these four fibers are scrub fabric mainstays worth getting familiar with.

Cotton

Cotton is one of the most common fabrics used in garments, including scrubs, and for good reason. It's lightweight, soft, flattering, durable, and doesn't build up static electricity. The fabric is thin yet strong, and it drapes nicely for a flattering fit, an important detail if you like more form-fitting scrubs. Cotton is an especially good choice in warmer months since it's breathable and light, though it can be worn year-round.

Prints show up well on cotton, but dyes do fade with washing, and the fabric may shrink if washed or dried improperly. Its fibers also soil and wrinkle relatively easily. Still, cotton is easy to launder and doesn't require much special care. You can hang dry it if you're worried about shrinkage. You may find 100 percent cotton scrubs, but this fiber is often blended with others to help prevent wrinkling and shrinkage. Browse our cotton-blend scrubs to see this fiber in action.

Polyester

Close behind cotton in popularity is polyester, a synthetic fabric derived from a chemical reaction between coal, petroleum, air, and water. Because it's synthetic, polyester doesn't feel as natural as cotton, but it brings its own advantages: it's wrinkle-resistant, easy to care for, durable, and quick-drying. It also resists stretching and shrinking, which is part of why it's often blended with cotton.

Polyester is moisture-resistant rather than absorbent, so it tends to trap sweat instead of soaking it up the way cotton does. Some people find pure polyester's texture a bit rough, and it can build up static electricity, though washing with fabric softener helps prevent that. When washing polyester garments, turn them inside out to prevent snags and pilling, wash in warm water with fabric softener, and either line dry or tumble dry on low with a dryer sheet.

Spandex

You probably associate spandex, also called Lycra® or elastane, with leotards, but this lightweight, durable synthetic is used to add stretch to many types of clothing. Spandex resists permanent stretching and shrinking. It stretches and then returns to its original shape once you take the garment off, which is why it helps prevent bagging and sagging. It's also resistant to perspiration and abrasion. On its own, spandex has a fairly rough texture, so it's not especially comfortable to wear alone, which is why it's typically blended with cotton or polyester.

Fabric containing 10 percent or more spandex will feel noticeably different from pure cotton. Washing depends on spandex content: garments with up to 20 percent spandex can be washed on warm with a cold rinse and dried on low to medium heat, while garments with more spandex should be gently washed in cold water and hung to dry. For more on how stretch fabric performs day to day, see our guide to scrubs with stretch.

Rayon

Rayon is a semi-synthetic fabric usually made from cellulose fibers taken from wood pulp, along with additional chemicals. While it's derived from natural fibers, the manufacturing process means rayon isn't considered a fully natural material the way cotton is. Rayon can be made to mimic the look and feel of other fabrics, including silk, wool, cotton, and linen, and it comes in a range of qualities and weights as a result. It drapes well and looks soft and silky, but it isn't especially durable over the long haul. Rayon wrinkles easily and may stretch or shrink when wet, so care matters. The safest approach is usually to hand wash and line dry. If the garment tag allows machine washing, use the delicate cycle and then lay flat or hang dry.

Blends

The four fibers above are often combined to form blends of varying percentages, with polyester/cotton and polyester/spandex being the two most common in scrubs.

Polyester/Cotton

This is a popular combination for scrub fabric and many other garments. Polyester helps the fabric retain its shape and resist stains and wrinkles, while cotton adds absorbency and comfort. The blend won't carry the full qualities of either pure fiber, so a poly/cotton blend won't be as breathable as 100 percent cotton, for example. The exact characteristics depend on the ratio of each fiber, but generally a poly/cotton blend is versatile and durable. It also holds up reasonably well through repeated washing, retaining dyes and prints, though it may pill over time. Machine wash on warm and follow the manufacturer's drying instructions, typically low to medium heat or hang drying.

Polyester/Spandex

This fully synthetic blend is another popular choice for scrub fabric. Polyester provides durability and shape retention, while spandex adds stretch and movement without sagging. Poly/spandex blends feel silkier than cotton/spandex or cotton/poly combinations and are virtually wrinkle-free. This blend is also typically moisture-wicking and easy to care for. As with poly/cotton, the exact qualities depend on the fiber ratio. Check the garment tag before washing, and when in doubt, use a cold, gentle cycle with similar colors, then tumble dry on low or air dry.

Weaves

Beyond fiber type, the weave of the fabric, or how the horizontal (weft) and vertical (warp) threads interlace, plays a big role in how scrubs perform. There are three main weaves used in scrubs: poplin, dobby, and twill.

Poplin

Poplin, sometimes called tabinet, is a plain weave with crosswise ribs that give it a corded surface. This weave produces a durable fabric that resists wrinkles and is easy to iron. Both sides of the fabric look the same, and the smooth surface makes poplin a popular choice for printed designs. Poplin fabric can be made from a range of fibers today, with pure cotton and cotton/polyester blends being common choices for scrubs.

Dobby

The dobby weave has been around since the 1840s and is created on a dobby loom, a piece of equipment that raises and lowers the warp threads individually to form small geometric patterns. This weave is perhaps best known for the pique fabric used in polo shirts, but it's also widely used across scrub fabrics and blends. Dobby weave tends to be absorbent and wrinkle-resistant, which is part of why it's a popular choice for scrubs.

Twill

Twill weave is created by passing the weft thread over two or more warp threads, then repeating that pattern one thread over, forming diagonal parallel ribs rather than the crosswise ribs of a plain weave. Because the rows are offset, twill tends to drape well, which leads to more flattering garments. Unlike a plain weave, twill has a distinct front and back side. Its texture disguises soiling and stains well, and the weave is durable and wrinkle-resistant, which is why it's often used in work uniforms, including scrubs. Denim is a well-known example of a twill weave.

Fabric Finishes and Treatments

After weaving, fabric can be finished or treated in different ways to add qualities like moisture-wicking performance or added softness. Brushed cotton is one example. During finishing, the fabric is brushed on the face side to remove excess lint and loose fibers, resulting in a smooth, soft fabric that keeps cotton's durability and absorbency. Brushed cotton differs from flannel, which is brushed on both sides during finishing.

Fluid-repellent treatments are common on scrubs given how many fluids, bodily and otherwise, healthcare workers encounter throughout a shift. Moisture-wicking finishes are another common treatment, helping the fabric pull sweat away from your skin so it dries quickly rather than leaving you feeling damp. For more on how these technologies show up in specific scrub lines, see our guide to the best scrubs for sweating. Most antimicrobial scrubs are also treated during finishing, though the exact process varies by manufacturer.

Fabrics are the building blocks of scrubs, and fibers, weaves, and treatments are the building blocks of scrub fabric. Since you wear scrubs for 12 or more hours at a time, it's worth investing in comfortable, durable garments that hold up through every kind of shift. Understanding how scrub fabric is made, and what to look for on the tag, will help you make a more informed choice the next time you shop. For care tips once you've found the right fabric, see our guide on how to wash scrubs.